Description Man of the moment Heston Blumenthal’s new restaurant venture
Nearest tube: Knightsbridge / Hype Park Corner
Head chef: Ashley Palmer Watts
Offers: Set lunch £28 for 3 courses
Best seat in the house: ask for a window seat
Tip: The restaurant’s signature dishes are not included in the lunch offer (shocker) so I recommend ordering one set menu (which will deliver!) and one mixed three course meal (so as not to miss out!)
Dinner is without a doubt the ‘hottest ticket in town’ (or whatever the restaurant equivalent is) and when I went in February of this year I was not disappointed. Somehow I managed to book a table for the restaurant’s second day open – I will never again be able to replicate this astonishing feat of forward planning/good luck but feel unbelievably blessed/shocked/smug/guilty at having managed to get in.
And what luck!
Throughout the meal we were surrounded by the who’s who of the food world. I was sat facing Mark Hix (British chef and star-gazy pie aficionado), a bounty of A list food critics including Giles Coran, Charles Campion and a gaggle from the Guardian (I was told), along with the man himself being interviewed at the next table.
For me, these guys are rock stars.
And the food... oh b’jesus. The famous ‘meat fruit’, a small but perfectly formed portion of chicken liver parfait coated in a mandarin jelly, was just perfect. It was pleasantly chilled and impossibly smooth and rich – enjoyable on every level. The ‘fruit’ was served with a sufficient portion of toasted brioche, a pleasant surprise when in so many restaurants they are determined to leave me wanting more bread (a constant bugbear of mine, and everybody’s??). The main course was the most succulent quail I’ve ever eaten (and the only quail I’ve eaten – but I’ve imagined eating more and it’s always been tough) with the smoothest, most delicate parsnip puree the world has ever seen. It’s the kind of puree you want to devote weeks to making yourself and mastering, then spreading on EVERYTHING, maybe even injecting. For dessert, I had a smallish cake and sorbet, but the main attraction was the caramelised pineapple and donut signature dish – very sweet, very delicious. Boom!
I couldn’t fault the service we received – as it was my boyfriend’s birthday, our lovely (if a little nervous) waiter took it upon himself to arrange a quick tour of the kitchens and a chat with Heston (who unfortunately had ducked out at the time, but a chat with head chef Ashley Palmer Watts was equally enjoyable!). The restaurant itself is light and airy with wonderful views over Hyde Park.
For those who, like me have dreamed of going to the Fat Duck for years, Dinner offers a good alternative if you want to know what the fuss about Heston Blumenthal is all about while still being able to afford a holiday this year.