Description: Unpretentious Michelin starred pub serving modern and rustic British and French dishes
Nearest station: Marlow Rail (1hr 10 minutes from London)
Head chef: Tom Kerridge
Offer: Set lunch £12.50 for 2 Courses /£16.50 for 3 Courses (Mon-Sat)
Best seat in the house: Table B2 was recommended as the best table for two, with table 10 suggested for groups of four plus
When Tom Kerridge’s slow-cooked duck with duck fat chips and gravy (link to recipe) main course whooped the competition at the BBC’s Great British Menu 2010 finals, I think we were all thrilled. The dish was presented simply and beautifully and looked delicious, but, most significantly for me, the chef himself seemed like an absolute gent. When he took the prize again at this year’s competition, I was equally chuffed. What’s most intriguing for me is when you see chefs competing on television cookery programmes behaving in an aggressive, snide or cocky manner. I genuinely don’t understand what they are looking to gain in doing this, a little like when those Big Brother ‘celebrities’ went all racist a few years back, (dude, you’re on national television – seriously?). Surely these ambitious young chefs realise that these TV shows are the perfect platform for them to use to communicate with their target audience and potential customer-base. We are by now well into the age of the ‘celebrity chef’, with veterans like Rick Stein and James Martin showing how far skill and charm can take you (doesn’t Stein own Cornwall now?). When Britain loves an under-dog, how far is bitchy banter really going to get you?
Not that Tom Kerridge is by any means an underdog; he just has the friendly, down to earth charm and easy manners to make him stand out from the pack. He is also very huggable.
The Hand and Flowers is a fantastic ‘pub’ with incredible looking and tasting food. The creative and delicate touch of these dishes really encapsulates the pleasure that can be gleaned from top level cooking. Being able to enjoy top quality dishes surrounded by friendly, unintimidating staff, in a relaxed cottage environment, without breaking the piggy bank, is the dream. During my most recent visit to The Hand in Flowers I tasted the most unexpectedly delightful Moules Marinière with warm stout, served sans shells and with a rich, foamy sauce. I’ve almost certainly eaten my family’s body weight in mussels over the past 25 years and I’ve never met a mussel like this before. Tom’s signature duck was truly sumptuous, but the highlight of the meal for me was the tonka bean panna cotta, with rhubarb and ginger wine jelly. Bloody hell. The look of this dish was spectacular and every tiny element tasted fantastic. I know I’m maybe overstating it a bit, but that dessert was hot to trot, and I miss it.
To sum up, The Hand in Flowers is definitely worthy of a visit. Generous portions, innovative dishes, attentive staff... a winner.
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